A couple of years ago there was a sitcom on ABC for about 10 minutes called "Oh Grow Up." I liked it, so I interviewed the show's creator, Alan Ball. I asked him what projects he had coming up, but so absorbed was he with running a TV show that he never mentioned a movie he had written that was having its premiere that month in Toronto. The film was "American Beauty." After "Oh Grow Up" was canceled, "American Beauty" bowled over Oscar, and Ball, vowing never to do network TV again, signed a contract with HBO. Judging by his first HBO series, a dark family comedy called "Six Feet Under," I hope he keeps his vow. "Six Feet Under," which will have its debut at 9 p.m. Sunday after the season debut of "Sex and the City," is the story of a family-run funeral parlor. But hold the word "family" loosely. This clan is barely held together by the mortuary business while it is torn from every direction by drug use, forbidden sex and barely suppressed rage. Ball has once again given us an ensemble of appealing, if miserable, characters; they started to grow on me in the second episode. "Sports Night" fans will recognize Peter Krause as the prodigal son who returns home after the father dies. Broadway actors Frances Conroy and Michael C. Hall play the mom and younger brother; Lauren Ambrose plays the smart but troubled daughter reminiscent of the Thora Birch character in "Beauty." My favorite, though, is Oscar nominee Rachel Griffiths as Krause's caring girlfriend, herself a refugee from a crazy family. Here we go again: Brassy New York chef Bobby Flay has gone to Tokyo for a rematch against rival Masaharu Morimoto on the campy cook-off show "Iron Chef." In the hallowed tradition of professional wrestling, the two-hour special, airing at 8 p.m. Sunday on the Food Network, hypes the rematch by recounting the supposed bad blood between Flay and Morimoto. We see key moments from their original showdown - including the parts where Flay cut and shocked himself while hurrying to throw together his one-hour Japanese concoction. (If you want to watch the whole contest, which Flay lost, Food Network is showing it at 8 p.m. Saturday.) The Flay-Morimoto rematch airs in the program's second hour, but don't miss out on the thrilling first hour in which challenger Kandagwa Torishiro shaves his head and puts on a game face against the show's "Iron Chef French," Hiroyuki Sakai. If you have no idea what I'm talking about, just watch it. "Iron Chef" is that medium-rare show that must be seen to be believed. Summer is the traditional start of the "cable season." Although cable channels now bring out new shows year-round, June is still its high tide for original shows. I'll feature a couple of channels every week in June, starting here with Sundance Channel. The indie-films network part-owned by Robert Redford is introducing a new series, "Anatomy of a Scene," which offers a new twist on the sneak-previews concept. It debuts at 6:30 p.m. Sunday. Like most movie shows, "Anatomy of a Scene" is tied to the release of an upcoming flick, in this case "The Anniversary Party" starring Alan Cumming and Jennifer Jason Leigh. But instead of talking about the whole film, Leigh and Cumming - who also co-directed "The Anniversary Party" - will discuss just one scene from it, "from its conception through production and principal photography to post-production," according to Sundance. In addition, the interview show "Conversations in World Cinema" begins airing at 7:30 p.m. every Thursday in June, followed by a "classic world cinema" showcase at 8 that features the works of foreign directors including Antonioni, Kurosawa and Renoir. OK, enough of the highbrow. Let's take the down elevator to the very lowbrow. I'm referring, of course, to the E! channel, where somebody's trash just became America's treasure. And who better to take out the trash than gossipmeister A.J. Benza. The former irritant of E!'s "The Gossip Show" and narrator of the bottom-feeding "Mysteries and Scandals" now has an interview program, "A.J. After Hours." It has its premiere at 9 p.m. Thursday on E! with guests Heath Ledger, Luther Vandross and Victoria's Secret model Frederique. At 11 p.m. there's "Wild On " a travel-and-celebrity series that's just a repackaging of the channel's old "Sex on " series with a, well, less sexy name. You can reach Aaron Barnhart through the TV Barn Web site at www.tvbarn.com. @ART CAPTION:The cast of "Six Feet Under" includes, at far right, Peter Krause, formerly of "Sports Night." @ART:Photo (color) @ART CREDIT:HBO >>>

