'Philly' star is better than show

'Philly' Airs: 9 p.m. Tuesdays, ABC (Channel 9) Stars: Kim Delaney, Most closely resembles: "The Practice" Aaron's advice: Try it. Frantic and occasionally over-the-top drama about a hard-charging defense lawyer (Delaney). This show is a lot like "The Practice," with the crazy pretrial hearings, the crazier judges who preside over the cases, unprofessional behavior left and right and even one of those extra-special moments when somebody tells Delaney: "You're my role model. I want to be just like you." Someone really says that - and they mean it. "Philly" is unfortunately too derivative to stand out and will likely be a disappointment for its star. Too bad; Delaney is star material who deserves better than the No. 3 role on "NYPD Blue" (where she may return after this show is canceled). 'The Guardian' Airs: 8 p.m. Tuesdays, CBS (Channel 5) Stars: Simon Baker, Dabney Coleman, Alan Rosenberg, Charles Malik Whitfield, Erica Leershen, Raphael Sbarge Most closely resembles: "Judging Amy" Aaron's advice: Tape it. Interesting drama about a snotty young Pittsburgh lawyer named Nick (Baker) who's busted for drugs and is sentenced to volunteer as a child advocate. He freaks when he gets his first case; of course, there are the pressures back at the firm, where Dad (Dabney Coleman) rides him hard, not to mention the mandatory surprise drug tests. But Nick rises to the occasion ... like we'd expect anything less from CBS? Still, it's an engaging set-up for what will likely be a hit, since it was obviously designed to complement the social-service minded "Judging Amy." 'EMERIL' Airs: 7 p.m. Tuesdays, NBC (Channel 41) Stars: Emeril Legasse, Robert Urich, James Lafferty, Tricia O'Kelley, Carrie Preston, Sherri Shepherd, Lisa Ann Walter Most closely resembles: "The Michael Richards Show" Aaron's advice: Forget it. Emeril Legasse's new sitcom is about as appealing as an etouffee made with Ragu. But from the moment NBC put the cable-TV chef on its fall schedule, the word "trouble" has stuck with this show like a foul odor emanating from behind the stove. After advertisers savaged the original pilot episode, the show was overhauled, to no avail. In tonight's episode, you can see Emeril straining mightily not to be a terrible actor - which, of course, he is. It just goes to show that on TV, as in the restaurant business, you can usually trust word of mouth. 'UNDECLARED' Airs: 7:30 p.m. Tuesdays, Fox (Channel 4) Stars: Jay Baruchel, Charlie Hunnam, Monica Keena, Carla Gallo, Timm Sharp, Seth Rogen, Loudon Wainwright III, Christina Payano Most closely resembles: "Freaks & Geeks" Aaron's advice: Tape it. From the executive director of "Freaks & Geeks," the much-admired but low-rated former NBC show, "Undeclared" is about that first year or two at college. It's a fantasy in which even the geekiest kid scores with a hot babe his first night in the dorms. There's some clever dialogue here, and "Undeclared" is filmed like a movie, with no laugh track. With luck this show may make it to sophomore year. 'LOVE CRUISE' Airs: 8 p.m., Fox (Channel 4) Stars: Justin Gunn and 16 strangers Most closely resembles: "Road Rules," only without the road Aaron's advice: Try it (maybe) Not just another lurid Fox reality show (a la "Temptation Island"), "Love Cruise" is, for the first episode anyway, more like "Therapy Cruise." A luxury yacht plays host to 16 swingin' singles who pair off, then compete in contests and for an eventual $200,000 prize. They can also swap partners every three days, which you'd think would make for a real swingin' time. But about the only thing that swings on this boat are moods. One by one they confess privately to the cameras that they suffer from low self-esteem and poor personal image. In no time at all this fantasy vacation has become a pity party. "Love Cruise" is produced by the Bunim-Murray company that invented reality TV with its whiny, self-absorbed MTV series, "The Real World." Required viewing for lonely hearts who think they have it bad. Aaron Barnhart's fall TV preview is online at www.kansascity.com. @ART CAPTION:Kim Delaney stars in "Philly." @ART:Photo (color)